Waking up at 6 am is fine as long as you get to sleep at a decent time. Ten for me, so 8 hours is a win in my book.
I go to the lobby to see what they have for breakfast items. I am delighted to see two kinds of burritos. Not breakfast burritos, but real burritos. Beef and bean with green chilies. A hot red one, too. They are as delicious as a burrito from a microwave can be.
I am in no rush today, as I want to be sure that I don’t try to go too far today. I need to be serious about pacing myself for the first week. 16 is my target. There are two campgrounds at that distance that I can choose from.
Today’s weather is nice. It is not cool and it is not hot. It is mostly overcast and it will stay this way all day. I was expecting hot, but I will consider overcast a win.
The trail snakes around an industrial area on a gravel path for about a mile. Then it turns into full on rail trail. This will be the treadway for the entire day.
The trail crosses many roads, but none of them are busy with traffic. The scenery changes from forest to corn fields to meadow to riverside all day.
The bugs are not bad in most sections, but a few areas are thick with mosquitoes and deer flys. I decide it’s time to try Mr Dragonfly. I have a rubber dragonfly that I can screw on the top of my tent pole sticking up out of my pack.
After an hour, I declare him ineffective, but I like his company so I will keep him for now. The bugnet is on my head for about 20 percent of the day.
I pass thru a small town with no services at about noon. I want to cook soon, but I only have enough water left for cooking and not for drinking. There is a park by a dam in about 2 miles which I should be able to hit by 1. I will cook lunch there.
As luck would have it, there are apple trees along the side of the trail here. They are small and not yet fully ripe, but they will quench my thirst. I eat five of them and I am no longer thirsty or hungry. Perfect timing.
Various flowers line the trail. This patch had two completely different flowers that were identical colors. I took pictures of about a dozen flowers, but I will spare you the drudgery of having to see them all.
The park at the dam was nice. The water was not so nice. It tasted like mud. I had clean water to cook with and drank about a liter of pond water flavored with a nuun electrolyte tablet. Lime mud tastes OK.
It was just a few more miles to the campground, but the camp store was disappointing. They had ice cream and literally nothing else. No water, no soda, no snacks. Ice cream sandwich it is. I was hoping for a Gatorade.
The campground was a good call. I was tired when I arrived, but revived quickly. If I had stopped for a break and not checked in, I would have been tempted to keep going another hour or two. It is only 4 pm and plenty of daylight left.
I look to see what is 16 miles ahead for tomorrow and it turns out to be the center of a town with a haunted hotel. If the Delta trips can book a room for tomorrow, then I am there. I check out the Delta website and they can book it for $108 with a $100 coupon and now I have a room with a shower for tomorrow night exactly 16 miles from here. I don’t have to worry about pushing too far tomorrow. And the hotel is cheaper than this campsite, which also has a shower.
Emotion of the day, Excitement
It is exciting to have the first full day today. The rail trail is nice. The scenery is nice. The fact that I have a rock solid plan to not start out too fast is icing on the cake. The overcast skies were nice, too.
I have well over a thousand miles left to hike, but it is exciting to be back on trail again. Only 22.8 complete, but that is still exciting to me. It’s a brand new experience on each different trail.
I was only able to get three hours of sleep last night. It took me an hour to fall asleep last and my body just can’t sleep past 7 A.M.
I didn’t really eat properly yesterday and it was such a long day that I was pretty hungry this morning, so I ate a large breakfast. I have many chores to do this morning and I need to get an early start.
The first chore is getting the package that I mailed to myself. The package is not at the front desk, but after a few questions here and there, the clerk and I figure out that it might still be in the mailbox out by the road. When we checked the mailbox, it is indeed sitting there waiting for me. So the first problem is resolved.
The next order of business is getting fuel for my stove. There is a sporting goods store two blocks away, so I decide to try there first. As a luck would have it they do have the fuel and they also have dehydrated dinners. So I pick up a lasagna and a pair of sunglasses since I forgot to bring mine. Chore two and three resolved.
Next up is to see about shoes. One pair of shoes is not going to last for the entire trail. There is a shoe store nearby that carries a brand that I’ve been wanting to try, and it’s only two blocks in the other direction. So I go there next.
They measure my feet, which I know will have them trying to put me into shoes that are too small. That is exactly the case, and they finally give in and try the sizes I was asking for. They fit much better, so I buy a pair and they will ship them to me later up the trail. Chore four is resolved.
Chore five is to find lunch and with a barbecue restaurant across the street from the hotel, this one is easy to solve. Chore five complete.
The only chore left for the day is to catch my shuttle which has been arranged for 4:30, but it is only one o’clock. So the next chore is to try and sleep for an hour or two. That chore fails, but at least I got some time to rest. I’m packed and ready to go buy four o’clock. So I run to the Starbucks across the street to grab a quick cup of coffee.
The shuttle arrives right on time, and it’s a quick one-hour drive to the trailhead. We talk about camping and hiking for the next hour and it goes by very quickly. Before I know it, I am on the Eastern terminus waving goodbye to the shuttle driver.
For such a horrible travel day yesterday, the first day of the actual trip has gone far better than anticipated. Other than not getting a nap, all of the other chores were far easier than I thought. I didn’t have to go three and a half miles to Cabela’s for stove fuel and everything I needed was within two blocks. I picked the perfect hotel site to stay at.
The Eastern terminus is quite nice. There is a very large parking area with one picnic bench and the obligatory terminus monument. Off into the distance you can see lake Michigan and a huge meadow far below the bluff where the terminus is located. I take a few pictures and then head off into the woods. My trip has officially begun At 5:45.
The first three miles are through the Potawatomi State Park. It is heavily forested and offers views of the lake for most of its length. I guess technically this is Green Bay and not lake Michigan.
There is just enough undulation to the trail to slow you down a little bit. If the entire trail were like this it would be absolutely perfect. I am not looking forward to so many bike trails and road walks that are totally flat. When it’s easy, you tend to go too fast and push too hard. I need to fight that urge for at least the first week so that my body can acclimate slowly without abusing it.
The next three miles are road walking through the town of Sturgeon Bay. The sun is setting, so it is a beautiful hike through the city next to many restaurants and little stores. My destination is a Quality Inn on the other side of town. I badly need to catch up on sleep, as I’ve had a low-grade headache all day from my body being so out of whack from the travel day.
This is Wooly in downtown Sturgeon Bay.
There is a very large Kwik Stop next to the hotel so that is where I will get dinner. A pizza wrap and a chicken sandwich with chocolate milk is the perfect dinner for tonight. Now to see if I can get some sleep. Real sleep.
Emotion of the day, Elation
Today couldn’t have been any better. I completed all of my chores within a quarter mile of the hotel. The shuttle went perfectly, and I am actually starting this trip earlier than I expected.
The trail, Including the road walks, is actually really nice. And I’ve not had to combat mosquitoes or horse flies yet, so I am elated to have a far better than expected first day. I know the misery is coming at some point, but for today everything is perfect.
I love travel and I love planes. But plane travel in the afternoons in the summer in the south is like playing Russian roulette.
The plan was a 50 minute flight from Gainesville to Atlanta, then a 2 hour flight to Green Bay after a 1 hour layover. Leave at 8 pm, arrive at 11:30 pm. That’s not what unfolded.
The Gainesville ground crew was great. They knew a storm was rolling in, so they had the arrival emptied and turned over in ten minutes. Our flight left 5 minutes early. Atlanta was clear, so they let us take off. A great start.
Nearing Atlanta is where things turned sour. A huge thunderhead was over the airport and we had to do circles to wait for the storm to clear. You could see dozens of other planes in the air doing the same thing .
After an hour of circles, we were running low on fuel, so we were diverted to Augusta to land and refuel. We sat on the tarmac in Augusta for an hour to wait out the storm. The fuel truck was right out my window so I could see the fuel gauge. We took on 859 gallons of fuel. There went any profit on the flight.
My connecting flight was also delayed two hours, so I should still be able to make my connection. But Delta kept trying to put me on a flight the following morning. I kept having to reject their recommendations to keep the original flight. Once we took off from Augusta, I could only pray we make it in time and Delta did not keep trying to rebook me.
Forty minutes later we were on the ground in Atlanta and the weather was great. And I had 25 minutes until my connection was due to depart. I knew I needed to go to the F concourse, but which one did I arrive on?
The answer was C. That is in the middle of the airport and F is at the far end with international flights. If I can catch the train, I can make it. It is about 12:30 at this point and the trains are not going to F concourse. I will have to walk. Quickly.
Walking at a 4 mph pace and using all the moving walkways helped. The F concourse is an eternity away. I make it about one minute before the door closes. I am the last one to board the plane. The plane is pretty full, but I can tell that the empty seats are others who did not make the connection.
After all the delays, the flight arrives in Green Bay three hours late at 2:30 in the morning. Now to get to the hotel. Uber, Lyft, or taxi. Any guesses?
I try to book an Uber as soon as the plane lands. Uber wants $65 for a 2.9 mile fare. No. Let’s try Lyft. They want $12. Bingo. By the time I get to the loading area, not a single taxi is around. It takes ten minutes to get a driver and the rate has gone up to $21. I’ll still take it.
The 11 minute eta takes 20 minutes. Then another couple tries to snag my ride. Do they not know how Lyft works? Five minutes later I am at the hotel. It is 3 am but my body thinks it is 4 am. I normally wake up at 5 am, so my body is wrecked.
Now to see how long it takes me to fall asleep.
Emotion of the day, Exhaustion
After an 8 mile walk in the morning, packing up everything, and dinner with Karen, I already had a full day. By the time the plane was in the air, I would normally be going to bed.
Now add 8 hours of travel, and I am exhausted. It’s one of those feelings of being so tired that you can’t sleep. Tomorrow is going to be a long day, too.
I happen to have some free time away from work, so it’s time to sneak in a quick hike. And if you only have two months beginning in August, then Wisconsin is not a bad deal.
Fires are raging in the west, so they are out. Oppressive heat is still blanketing the south, so that is out. The east coast is at peak humidity, so that is out. The only thing left in the 1000 mile range is the Ice Age Trail. Sounds perfect.
The Ice Age Trail is one of the 11 national scenic trails, too, which is a plus. I have only spent a small amount of time in Wisconsin, so this sounds perfect.
The only thing not perfect is the schedule leading up to the hike. I have been in an 8 week cohort learning to teach Data Science and Machine learning that ends with an AWS specialty certification in Machine Learning.
These certification exams are not trivial. They take 3 hours and get very specific. But I also have another three AWS certifications expiring in October and another Microsoft one expiring in September.
So between last Wednesday and Monday, I passed one AWS specialty certification, one AWS professional certification, and another Microsoft one. My brain hurts, I need some trail time.
The trail itself is about 1150 miles long from Sturgeon Bay on the east, to St Croix Falls on the west near Minneapolis. About 500 of those miles are road walks, so I am expecting it to feel like the Florida trail in that regard. It is not mountainous and has plenty of water features, so it is like the FT in that regard, too.
I am not going to be changing any of my gear from the last Florida hike except for fewer warm clothes. So this should be an easy preparation and transition to this new trail. Bugs and thunderstorms will play a prevalent part of the experience. Fun, fun.
I have been walking 8 miles nearly every day for the last month and running some, so I am hoping that will be enough conditioning as long as I start out slowly.
Emotion of the day
Anticipation, definitely that. It has been a while since a longish hike and it seems like I have just been tied to a computer for the last year and a half. I definitely can’t wait to stretch my legs and beat up my feet again. I have been wanting to really get to know Wisconsin better as well. I am anticipating that this hike will be a lot of new experiences for me.
Today is the last day of the hike. Would I do it again? I am not sure….
Reveille
The last day of a hike is always weird. Each hiking day is usually connected to the day after it – setting up for making the Post Office, the check-in time at a hotel, or something else that happens in the future. You have read about many of those if you have been following along in this blog.
But today is just today. The only goal is to finish in time for lunch. And with 10 miles, some on the beach again, that means heading out early. And for today, early means 7:30. Breakfast starts at 6:30, so it is not a hurried morning by any standards. I also removed a few more things from the pack that I know I won’t need.
Walking Through Pensacola Beach
The hike begins with more town walking. The bike path will be the hike for the next mile or two. I can’t pinpoint why, but I think I like Pensacola Beach and Ft Pickens road better than Navarre Beach. I guess it seems like a better mix of residential and commercial businesses to make a more well-rounded community.
Hurray for sidewalks!Hurray for bike paths.The obligatory Peg Leg Pete’s picture. We will have to come back here for lunch tomorrow.
Ft Pickens road turns from residential to another National Seashore. At this point, the bike path ends, and there are no bike lanes on the road. it is more beach walking.
The tide is similar to yesterday and is nearly high. I can’t tell if it’s rising or falling, but there is a decently packed surface to walk on if I stay just close to the water’s edge. A few small spots get steep, and a few small spots get soft. It is the same experience as yesterday while walking on the beach. The weather is similar, too – overcast with the sun barely peeking out a few times, and strong wind.
I can actually see some of the rip currents drawing water out into the deeper ocean. There is a rip current warning going on right now and the surf flags are at yellow (moderate risk). The water is nice and medium blue but turns dark about 80 yards offshore as the water deepens.
Great beach walking weather.I am the only one on the beach.
I last longer on the beach today, about a full hour before my feet are getting sore from the slope, so I decide to try out the road when it gets close to the beach. The road here has a bike lane, but only about the normal 4 feet of width instead of the wide 5 feet of yesterday.
I can see the buildings ahead and see that I almost completed the beach hike completely. There was only about a half mile left before the trail comes back to the road. I am less than three miles from the finish and have less than an hour left to go.
Fort Pickens Park
I have been hiking in Fort Pickens park for the last hour, but now the buildings and gun batteries are visible to me so it seems to me like this is the beginning of the park. The trail goes back to the road from one of the beachside parking areas. There is a huge gun battery facing the beach. The trail crosses the road and begins the dunes walk at the base of one of the largest ones.
When I get onto the trail, I am delighted to find that it is a trail that goes through wooded dunes, not sanded dunes. The trail is crushed gravel and not soft sand. There is also quite a bit of shade, so this will be a great two-mile finale for the hike.
A nice gravel trail through a softly wooded area instead of squishy dune sand.
The trail goes right through the middle of the campground. It is a sardine-style campground. The camping spots are packed together very tightly with very few trees like many RV parks are. It is not like a State Park campground at all. I do not think I would enjoy camping here.
There are a few other people day hiking on the trail as well. It is a nice trail for a beach area. Near the end, an estuary pops up. I am tempted to go down and taste the water to see if it is fresh, brackish, or salty. I assume it is not fresh since it is so close to the water, but there does not seem to be any connection to the bay.
I get excited when I see the wooden bridge over the end of the estuary. I know that I am now just a few tenths from the end. I am hiking briskly, straining to see the end as the trail curves gently to the left.
Hey bozo, don’t fly past this thing without noticing it.
I finally can see the parking area, and I spot Karen parked right where she can see the trail and me coming. I can see the kiosk at the end of the trail, but I cannot find the terminus monument. Where can it be? It should be here somewhere. I search all over the parking lot, but I cannot find it. How can you miss a brick monument?
I consult the app, looking for information. It turns out the monument was at the wooden bridge, and not at the end of the trail. What? It’s called a terminus.
Terminus – a final point in space or time; an end or extremity.
Well, apparently the northern terminus for the Florida Trail is a few tenths of a mile from the end. Then why is this trail not marked as a blue trail like every other parking access trail? Some things just don’t make sense.
So I load back up and start heading backward on the trail. As I approach the bridge, I can see the monument tucked to the side of the trail at the northwest corner of the bridge. Holy smokes, I walked right past it without seeing it.
Now I can take a real finishing photo.
I go back over the bridge and get some video shots of coming over the bridge and seeing the monument. I feel like a fake. But I get my video, I get my photos, and it’s time to go back to the car and head out.
There is a ton to see in this park, and Karen had to buy a 7-day pass to get in, so we will leave now and come back tomorrow to explore. We will be meeting her cousin for an early dinner, so it is back to the hotel and shower for now. I have many blog posts to catch up on, and some work to do (including an all-hands call).
The hike is over. It does feel like it is over and I am ready for it to be over. It was a nice ending, being able to catch up with Jack and Mickey again and hike a few of the last days with them again. They will be finishing a few days later, as they delay their ending.
It is also nice being able to get picked up at the end instead of turning around and backtracking out of the national seashore. That would be a seven-mile backtrack to get out of the National Seashore to see if you could catch an Uber somewhere.
Emotion of the Day
I would like to pick something like joy or accomplishment or something befitting of the end of a long 1100-mile two-month journey like this.
But the crazy monument thing is just consuming my every thought. I am bewildered.
The rest of the day was great. I had fun walking on the beach, I had fun walking down Ft Pickens road, and I had loads of fun on the last dunes trail. Everything was great, right until the end wasn’t the end.
I am just bewildered that the end of the trail is not the terminus.
I think I need to get more active in the Florida Trail Association. There are many little things that could be improved to make the Florida Trail a better hiking experience.
Would I do it Again?
Right now, no. But I’m sure my mind will change over time as it always does. I will say that the stench of hiking in humid areas is not as fun as in arid areas. I know I will hike again, but I think I will look for a desert trail next.
The beer I had yesterday at dinner caused a major headache that lasted all night and into the morning. I almost did not hike at all today. That would have been bad for the rest of the schedule since rooms have already been booked.
I Hate Headaches
There are some beers I cannot drink. Anything that AB InBev owns I cannot drink. And apparently, the beer I had was from a brewery now owned by AB InBev. Beginning at about 10 or 11 pm, I started developing a massive headache. I took aspirin, I took Ibuprofin, and I drank caffeine to try to know it out. I barely slept all night and at 6 am, I was nauseous and wanted to crawl into a hole.
I only have 17 miles to hike today, but quite a bit of it is on the beach and I will not be hiking as fast. If I don’t start by 9 am, I will not be able to finish by a reasonable time to be able to shower and have dinner. I want to be at the next hotel by 3 or 3:30 at check-in time.
We wander down to breakfast a little after 7. Let’s see if I can eat something and feel better. As soon as we hit the breakfast area, I smell burned toast and think I am about to throw up. I grab a carton of milk and two yogurts and head immediately back to the room (with some coffee). Back in the room, I eat the dairy products and crawl back into bed. Maybe I can catch an hour of sleep.
And apparently, that’s exactly what the doctor ordered. I wake up at 8:45 and feel 95% good. This is good enough to start hiking with. I pack up quickly and head out the door, I should be able to make the next 17 miles by 3 or 4 o’clock.
Let’s Hike Along the Beach
I am still in the thick of Navarre Beach, so the first few miles are just walking along houses and a few small businesses. I am feeling pretty good, and after an hour of walking, my appetite kicks in. I eat some of my walking snacks, and I am now walking at full speed – yay, the day is not ruined.
Before long, the trail comes to the first of two National Seashore sections. This is where the bike trail ends, and the beach walking begins.
Follow my tracks in the sand.
The sand is soft on the beach, but not too bad to walk on. I make my way closer to the water where the sand should be more densely packed and easier to walk on. It looks like it is nearly high tide, so there is not much beach that is not steeply sloped or covered in water. Still, I find a good line just above the water where I can hike nearly full speed. And with less in my pack (no tent, sleeping bag, clothes, or extra food) I can hike more quickly anyway.
The first of two National Seashore sections.
After about 45 minutes, my ankles have had enough sand. So I make my way over to the road at a section that is nearby. I am delighted to see that the road has a nice five-foot-wide bicycle lane. This will be my trail for the next few miles instead. I can still see the ocean and the sound as well, so this path suits me just fine. It is quieter than being right on the waves, too. It makes it easier to hear myself think.
After a long nine miles or so of the national seashore, the trail comes to the next beach town – Pensacola Beach. I have only a few miles to hike here before the next hotel – another Springhill Suites.
Pristine beaches ahead of me.
As I am hiking along the bike path, I see Karen pass by on her way to the next hotel. She does not even see me on the side of the road. I am the one with the bright red shirt, fluorescent orange hat, and big blue backpack – I am right here! Her mind is elsewhere. Could possibly be grapes (Ellen Degeneres reference).
Right at 3:15, I roll up into the next hotel and there is Karen staring straight at me – she sees me now! yay. We check in and drag all the gear up to the room again. It is shower time, again. I like these showers.
There are some odd folks in this town.
Dinner this time is at Flounder’s Chowder House. Their chowder is really good, and so are the seared tuna tacos. Possibly the best tuna tacos I have ever had. The food around here has been pretty darned good.
Emotion of the Day
Today was a mix – the day almost never started, then turned out to be great. I am not sure what to pick, but I think I need to pick uncertainty.
All night long and early in the morning, I was afraid today was not going to happen. Even though it started a little later than I wanted, it did happen and it turned out fine. but the long evening and morning of uncertainty had occupied much of my thoughts for the day.
I am greatly relieved that the day did turn out great. But I was uncertain that I would even hike today.
Today is the last day of the trail to include woods. Beginning tomorrow, the trail will all be on exposed roads, bicycle trails, beaches, or dunes.
Rise and Shine, Sleepy Head
Today is another long day, so I need an early start. I begin my routine at 5 am and am able to get out and rolling just after 6 am. Jack and Mickey are still slumbering silently, so I may not see them again. They are going to be taking a slower pace at the finish because they need to stall for time to make their connecting train back north next week.
The trail here is still pretty good, but some of the water crossings have wood that is rotten and there are some muddy spots. But it is all avoidable, so I do not get wet feet. I am not back in Eglin yet, but that is coming later in the morning. I am unable to get an updated closure report for today, but the last two forecasts were for no closures in this section.
The trail pops out into a neighborhood and the roads get progressively busier as I approach civilization. I have about three miles through this neighborhood to another convenience store. I will see what they have to offer as breakfast number two.
The Last Roadwalk
The last road out to the highway where the convenience store has a decent amount of traffic on it. Sometimes there is a shoulder, and sometimes not. There are no big trucks so it is no big deal.
Road walking through a neighborhood to get out of the Blackwater River state park and over to the last Eglin section.
At the convenience store, they do have a small hot sandwich section. They have an egg and hamburger bagel. That looks interesting, so I get it plus a Dunkin Donuts coffee for later. I liked the hamburger breakfast sandwich thingy. It was a little spicy, but it was pretty good. It was not worth the $5 price, however.
The highway I must hike now starts out with a right-of-way shoulder. It is a main highway to Navarre, so it has quite a bit of traffic. The main function of being on this highway is to cross a very wide river, the Yellow river, which I have been hiking near yesterday and this morning. The bridge for the floodplain is at least a mile long and has a dedicated pedestrian lane.
When the bridge ends, the guide says just follow the GPS tracks to find the entrance into Eglin. And they are not kidding. It is just a secret entrance into an 8-foot-high game fence. if they had not had an orange streamer on it, I never would have climbed down the steep embankment to look for it. The “gate” was just a cut section of fence with a carabiner hooking it closed. How ghetto for the Air Force.
A very long bridge over the Yellow River, but it has a dedicated pedestrian path.
I could have road walked this highway all the way to Navarre, but that would miss this last section of Eglin. And since Eglin has been really nice so far, let’s stick with what works. There are lots of bald cypresses around, but the trails here have been high and dry, and except for the first stream crossing, that trend continues.
This last section does remain true to the previous ones. High sandy pines, lots of oaks, and streams to cross, but not as many as previously. The structures here are a little older and in need of a little repair here and there, but they are all still fine.
Whoopsie, this section of Eglin has been logged – follow the little orange streamers across.Someone has been practicing their bushcraft skills.
There are 13 miles in here before it, too, peters out into a neighborhood. The neighborhood soon pops out to the same highway into Navarre. Only this time, I am in Navarre and I have a sidewalk or bike path to hike in from now on. I have about six miles to the causeway over to the beachside where the hotel for the night is located.
There are several convenience stores and other businesses to look at. Once you get to the Santa Rosa sound, then the hotels start to pop up. There are two full-service grocery stores nearby, too. From this point on, you are in beachside suburbia except for the two national seashore sections.
Hello, Salty Water
Once highway 87 hits the sound, you will be within sight of water for the remainder of the hike. You only have five blocks or so along the north shore of the sound before you hit the causeway to go over to the barrier island of Navarre Beach.
The causeway is just over a mile long and goes pretty high. You are on a dedicated pedestrian path over the waterway. I am not a fan of heights, and the top section is suspended out over the water with gaps in the treadway where you can see down to the waterway below you. I kept my mind occupied so I did not think about the height.
I am glad I did not bother to pack a crossbow with me. Home sweet home for me is somewhere there in the distance.
When you get down to sea level again, you have passed your last water crossing, too. It is all pavement and sand from this point onward. (update – I was wrong, the terminus is right after a small wooden bridge). For me, I had less than a mile to get to tonight’s hotel – the Springhill Suites in Navarre Beach. My target time was 3 pm, and I arrived at about 3:15. Pretty good timing.
Karen was already there and waiting in the car reading a book. We checked in and dragged all our luggage up to the room. This place is pretty neat. They have an outdoor pool, hot tubs, and a lazy river. This would be a good place to relax, but I have more hiking to do with 27 miles to go until the end.
Sunset on the lazy river pool and hot tub.
As luck would have it, Jack and Mickey ended up going into town, too. They are at a hotel on the other side of the sound. We make plans for a late dinner after they have had time to do laundry. I have the luxury of having Karen bring a bag full of fresh clothes, so I can skip laundry. I only have a few items to wash at this point, anyway.
We pick Jack and Mickey up at their hotel, and it turns out that where we were going for dinner was just a block or two from them – we could have just walked. We had a nice dinner. I had a fried Oyster sandwich and a local beer. I should have skipped the beer – more on that tomorrow.
Emotion of the Day
Nothing would fit today except excitement.
Even though it was a long 27-mile day, I knew with an early start, I should be able to make the hotel around check-in time.
The Yellow River section went well, the Eglin West section went well, the weather was relatively cool, and it was just pleasant hiking.
I was excited to finally get to the beach, I was excited to not have to cook or camp anymore, and I was excited to see Karen again.
It felt like the first day of the end of the trail or the first day of a completely new trail. It was just an exciting day overall.
The long road walks really make you appreciate the trails more. Even boring ones.
Early Start
I knew today would be one of my longest days on the trail, so I made sure I was at the breakfast room before it opened at 6 am so I could be out the door as soon as possible. There we already a few people there with the same idea. It was a quick breakfast – grab a few eggs, some bacon, toast a bagel, and a cup of coffee.
The strategy worked and I was out the door at 6:20. The morning was very brisk, so I was bundled up in a long shirt and gloves, but I was wearing shorts because I knew it would get warm today.
Crestview is a spread-out town and I was on the outskirts near the interstate where there was no sidewalk. Luckily, the sidewalk began just a few blocks past the hotel.
A quaint little downtown on Main street.
Being Sunday, most businesses were closed. But it was still fun looking at all the businesses that were there. It is something to keep the mind occupied and pass the time faster. I am always amazed at the large number of vape shops I see all over the place. I have never seen anyone go in or out of a vape shop, do people really go there, or is it just money laundering? I wonder sometimes.
The downtown area is where most of the one-off restaurants are. All of them are closed, except for one. And as I pass it, Jack runs out of the store and flags me down. They stayed in the hostel last night and we are all heading to the same campsite tonight. I need an early start to get there before light, they don’t have the same limitations.
A neat little food truck court downtown, but not open on a Sunday morning.
It is also nice that Main street is one block off the highway and the official trail is on this smaller street. It makes walking easier (and quieter). But eventually, the cuteness runs out and it is back on the main highway.
Road Walking
The highway through town is pretty busy, even on a Sunday morning. The shoulder is pretty narrow and sloped, too. The sloped (and wet) grass just wears my feet down.
Before long, a convenience store turns up. It is Tom Thumb. I was not familiar with this chain before this hike, but I am beginning to like them. They are all new, they are lean, and they have a good selection. I grab an egg and cheese empanada for my second breakfast. It is 10 am, after all.
The road after the convenience store gives me a lucky break. The power line right-of-way is freshly cleared and is a relatively hard and flat surface. I will be able to walk this path away from the road about 70% of the rest of the road walk. The areas I cannot walk it are where the power lines go too far into people’s front yards. I am happy with the 70%.
A very nice right-of-way to walk on away from the highway. This one happened to be a gas pipeline, but it was usually under the power lines.
My next destination is Browns Grocery, which is a Marathon gas station and convenience store with a deli. And by deli, I mean fried foods. I choose catfish, hush puppies, potato wedges, and turnip greens. I didn’t know it came with a fountain drink, and I had already bought a pint of milk to go with it. I did end up drinking some Powerade as my fountain drink. But slamming the milk after the food was probably a mistake. It sat in my stomach like a block of cheese.
After Browns Grocery, the trail turned onto a smaller road. And this road grew smaller and smaller until it was basically just a forest road. But it still had houses on it. And the catfish was calling. And by calling, I mean it wanted out.
I was searching for a wooded section where I could sneak into the woods to go to the bathroom without being in anyone’s front yard. I did eventually find a place and ducked in fast. Let’s just say that 100 more yards would have been disastrous. No more fried food.
The last of ten crossings of Interstate 10. Four of them were optional (to go to hotels) but six are part of the trail, not including the numerous times we went close-to but did not cross this particular interstate.
Back in the Woods
Once the trail turned back into the woods, I still had 9 more miles to hike. The trail was decent. There were some cypress trees and swampy areas, which made me nervous. But the trail stayed away from the swamps and used wooden structures in most of the areas that were wet or muddy.
But most of the trail is in high sandy areas with lots of pines and smaller oaks. I hope the campsite is like this because I am looking forward to a dry night under an oak tree.
It is nice to be in the woods again.
When I only have two more miles to go, here come Jack and Mickey strolling up behind me. Apparently, they passed by Browns to stop at the Dollar General and saw me pass the store. Small world.
I hung with them for over a mile but then fell behind a bit as we neared the camp. When we arrived, I was happy to see that there were indeed lots of oak trees. And magnolias as well, which have even bigger dew-catching leaves.
I set up my tent under a big magnolia on a gentle slope. We had a picnic table, so I drug all my cooking gear over there after filtering some water to cook with.
I had packed out a surprise for us since I knew we were going to be camping together. I had bought a bottle of rum in Crestview, and also brought some red Gatorade and a Bare Naked mango smoothie. I was assuming they also had hot chocolate to give a third option, but they were out.
The red Gatorade went really well with the rum. It is basically a hurricane without the slushie ice. The mango smoothie was not as good. Something with pineapple would have been better. I had already tested out the hot chocolate the night before, and that is a winner as well.
A nice simple log to cross a stream on. They don’t need the fancy cable, but I guess some people like it. It just seemed to get in my way.
Emotion of the Day
I think driven is the word that comes to mind.
I had several missions today. 1 – get to camp before dark. 2 – start at the crack of dawn to be able to achieve #1. 3 – have happy hour.
Getting to camp was the real objective, and would lay the foundation for the rest of the trip. If I was not able to make camp that night, then I would not be able to make it to Navarre Beach the following night, and so on. I had to make reservations at these places and cancellations would be costly, so the timetable was non-negotiable.
And that meant focusing on one thing – making the Wild Azalea Camp by dark. Which I did, with plenty of time to spare.
And we had a nice evening talking and having happy hour.
Today was the first day the trails were clogged with day hikers. The people around Eglin must like to go hiking on the weekends. After all it is a nice place to hike.
Reveille
I am in a hotel with dark window shades. I probably do need a bugle to wake up. I actually slept in until about 6:15. And it felt good to sleep so long.
I have 19 Trail miles plus 2 miles of road walking to do today. Breakfast starts at 7:00 and I would like to be out of here by 7:30. I sneak down a few minutes before 7:00 and breakfast is already being served so I go ahead and chow down. I grabbed a bagel and an apple for the road.
Today it may not be raining as I leave the hotel but it is very cold. It was 32° last night so I’m glad I didn’t have to sleep in it. My hotel room was toasty warm. But even with long sleeves and gloves it’s pretty chilly walking along the road this morning.
The ground is still frozen where the sun isn’t shining.
The road walk is a bit annoying because there is tons of traffic on it and no shoulder to speak of. Where are all these people going on a Saturday morning?
I received a text in the morning that Jack and Mickey had camped out near the highway that I’m walking on now to get back to the trail. I found out later that they ate dinner at the McDonald’s that was right next to my hotel. We were literally less than a tenth of a mile from each other last night.
But now this morning I assume that they are one or two miles ahead of me at this point. When I get on trail and can find areas that have sand I can see their footprints so I know they are indeed ahead of me.
Back on Trail
The trails here on the north side are just like the trails back on the east side. It is a mix of trees mostly pine and oaks. And there are creeks or streams every two miles or so.
I will be hitting two campsites today, so I will time first and second lunch to those campsites. The first one should be about 10:30 and the second one about 1:00.
Easy walking.
A Short Rant on Bridge Construction
The bridges over the streams here are a bit over the top and overbuilt. But overbuilt is far better than underbuilt or collapsing. Most of the larger bridges have handrails. All of them have asphalt shingles on the treadway to prevent slipping.
Of all the methods I have seen on slick wooden boards, the shingles are the most effective. The plastic coated hardware cloth I will rate second. And the bare metal hardware cloth I will rate third. The ones that just have cuts a quarter inch deep or have no treatment are as slippery as ice if it is wet at all.
My favorite style of bog logs, two sturdy beams with asphalt shingles on top.
I prefer their style of bog logs here too. Some would call them puncheon boards. They use two very sturdy beams side by side with less than a one inch gap. I didn’t measure them but they look like 4 inches by 8 inches. With shingles on top they are deluxe.
Other regions used smaller boards like a 4×6 or a 4×4. Sometimes they were spaced 3 or 4 inches apart. When they are that far apart it is easy to actually get your foot stuck between them. If you were to slip it would probably snap your tibia and fibula right in half.
Some regions build boardwalks. The top surface is usually just decking boards or sometimes they are 2×8 s. They may have two supports under them or three supports. You can never really see them and you can never really tell how strong or how rotten they are.
And the decking boards themselves often get rotten and you can find some of them broken. I just don’t want to be the person that discovers the broken one. In my opinion if they’re more than six or seven years old they’re probably unsafe.
I saw many bridges that were held together only by the fasteners. Fasteners are meant to keep two surfaces together not to support shear loads of a bridge. One bridge had actually collapsed. If I had been the one on that bridge when it let go, I probably would have broken my back.
Okay, I am done with the rant now.
Getting into Crestview
I mentioned earlier that there were a lot of people on this trail today. Most of them did not want to speak other than to say hello.
But one gentleman was eager to talk. He was a local and had been hiking around these trails for decades. He had not hiked any other parts of the Florida Trail but knew that it was the length of the entire state. I let him know that he was spoiled having a good section to hike for so long.
Silver creek is crystal clear.
He did also clue me in that Jack and Mickey were only 30 minutes ahead of me. But 30 minutes for people going in opposite directions is actually 60 minutes ahead. That means they were 3 mi ahead of me.
But shortly after talking to him I actually got a text from Mickey and found out that they were only two miles ahead of me. We are not staying at the same place in Crestview but we were going to make plans to have dinner together.
When the trail ended at the trailhead, there were seven or eight cars in the parking lot. This jives with the number of people I saw on the trail today.
The road walk into town was on a bigger road than I was expecting. It was a four-lane highway with lots of traffic. Luckily it is only three miles to the hotel. For some reason I was thinking it was more like five.
Only the first mile was empty road. The last two miles had businesses crowding either side of the road. Having things to look at does actually make the time go by faster.
One of the businesses was a convenience store that had a separate liquor store next to it. I have seen grocery stores with liquor stores next to them but never a convenience store with a liquor store next to them. I had to make a brief stop. You will find out more about that later.
It is still weird walking through a town this large and there are no sidewalks anywhere. It is amazing that the United States is so pedestrian and bicycle hostile. I guess this is one of the casualties of urban sprawl.
I got to the hotel just after 3:00 and heard from Mickey and Jack about 4:00. They did not realize their hostel was so far away from downtown so they were going to cancel dinner plans for tonight.
I already had my heart set on Thai food and had already checked out all the Thai restaurants in town. The two highly rated ones were not open tonight. But there were five or six others that were.
The closest one was a mile away. I don’t feel like doing bonus miles for dinner tonight. So tonight sounds like the perfect night to use Doordash for the first time.
One of the restaurants was hooked up with Doordash and online ordering. I ordered some Pad Thai and they said it would take 50 minutes to deliver. Sounds like a perfect time to take a shower.
The only problem is when I got out of the shower I could hear a knock on the door. They received my order cooked it and delivered it in 17 minutes. That’s faster than Domino’s. For one meal the $7 delivery fee is a little steep. But for a whole family I can see it being very economical.
The hotel breakfast starts at 6:00. I think I’ll try the same trick from today and go down 10 minutes early. If I can be on the road by 6:30 in the morning that would be fantastic. I have 28 miles to go tomorrow and I would love to be able to get there by 5:30. I think more than half of it is road walking so that should be achievable. I hope I sleep well again tonight.
Emotion of the Day
I think I will pick excitement for today.
The 32° starting temperature definitely had me walking briskly this morning. It was nice having a campsite to time for my two lunch stops. And it was nice having good trails and plenty of stream crossings without any worry of having to step in mud.
It was also nice knowing that I was close to Jack and Mickey again. I was excited to know that we were planning to meet for dinner even though it never happened.
Knowing that I am walking towards a hotel in a town with an endless list of restaurants and stores was also exciting. The south side of the town that I have walked through so far is not so great but I get to walk through downtown tomorrow. Most businesses will be closed on Sunday morning, though. There is a nice coffee shop downtown that would have been nice to stop at, so that is a bummer.
There wasn’t any major “one big thing” for today. It was just a combination of lots of little things that were nice and nothing that was a pain in the ass.
I have always heard that the trails on Eglin Air Force Base were nice. I would have to agree. If the entire trail were like this it would be an awesome thousand mile hike.
Last Night’s Rain is Late
One of the reasons for getting a hotel last night was because it was supposed to rain overnight and into the early morning. Camping in the rain is not bad. Setting up or taking down a tent in the rain is bad. That’s what I was trying to avoid.
I woke up at 4:00 and could hear that the rain was just starting. I got up at 5:00 and started packing but by then the rain had stopped. Checking the forecast it looks like the bulk of the rain is supposed to happen between 8:00 and 10:00 this morning.
I am not thrilled about this new timeline because I want to leave by 7:00. I’d rather not have an entire road walk in the rain again.
By the time I leave at 7:30 the rain is starting to pick up a little bit. I have about 3 hours of road walking to do this morning and I was hoping it wouldn’t be raining very hard.
A rainy road walk for three hours.
The intensity picked up and waned on about 30 minutes cycles. I was wearing my shorts and short sleeve shirt because I didn’t want to get my long sleeve stuff soaking wet. The rain was coming from all different directions and it was hard to avoid it.
My shoes were soaked within an hour. My priority was keeping myself dry and not the pack. So it was pretty saturated within about an hour as well. My torso stayed dry, but the hems of my shorts were getting pretty wet.
I like the roads that Google had picked out for me. The first one leaving from the hotel had a moderate amount of traffic. But the next three roads had almost no traffic at all. And that was a good thing because there was no shoulder at all either.
Doesn’t this look like a nice friendly road to live on?
The last mile of the road walk it was evident why the section I was walking around was closed. Every three or four minutes, you could hear and feel bombs exploding not too far away. There is no way I would want to live here. This is worse than living near an airport.
Entering Eglin East
It took almost a full 3 hours to get there but I finally managed to get to the trailhead. It was a bit anticlimactic. I am used to Cape Canaveral Air Force Base and it’s typical guard shack entry.
There’s no signs or anything other than a casual “Road might be subject to closure” out near the houses. Is this really a secure base? I guess maybe further in it gets more secure. After all, this is the outer edges open to recreation.
Welcome to Eglin, I think.
The terrain was very similar to what I hiked yesterday. There were streams every mile or two and they were nice clear streams. There were some pine trees but the majority of the trees were oaks. I guess this area is not actively logged.
The campsites are about the same as the others in the previous area. A few benches, a fire ring, maybe a kiosk, and a trail register. But that’s about it. Most of them did have oak trees for good cover from the dew.
I carried a liter and a half of water from the hotel. I knew there would be plenty of water sources and the morning was going to be raining so I wouldn’t be drinking much. The late morning the temperature dropped from 58 to 51 after the rain stopped. I wasn’t sweating at all.
Ok, now I know I am on the Air Force Base.
I don’t think I would have wanted to try and filter water today anyway. There is a lot of clay in this area and the rain just stirs the clay up and puts it into the rivers. I could see that they were slightly cloudy as I passed each one. Clay in the water means your water filter is going to clog very quickly. I still need a functioning water filter for the next few days.
After noon, the sun tried to come out briefly. But by 1:00 p.m. the clouds were breaking and the temperature was rising. Now the weather was perfect for hiking.
My shoes were almost dry, so I stopped to switch into dry socks at about 2:00 p.m. to give my feet a break. The shoes are still wet but with dry socks they will dry out within about 30 minutes.
Nice easy walking on soft pine needles.
If the forecast for the rest of the week is correct, then I should have seen my last rain of this trip. Wednesday shows a small chance of rain, but it also still shows sunshine. I can live with that.
I also hit two milestones in the hike today. At some point in the afternoon I hit the 1,000 mile point on the trail. This is good news because it means there’s less than 110 miles left.
Yay, only 110 miles to go.
The other milestone was hitting the highest point on the Florida Trail. It is a whopping 247 ft above sea level. It is not the highest point in the state, just the highest point on this trail.
The highest point on the Florida Trail is hard to notice if not for the sign.
Since I only had 20 miles to go today I was taking a more leisurely pace with short but more frequent stops. Sometimes it just felt good to sit in the Sun for a few minutes and soak up some rays.
The coffee I had for today both in the morning and afternoon was coffee that I got from the hotel. I didn’t think it tasted too bad at the hotel but now that it was cold it really tasted bad. I think I need to stick to my Cafe Bustello and Trader Joe’s instant coffees. Unless I am toting out a Starbucks or a Dunkin Donuts.
More Hotels
I arrived at the hotel just before 4:00 p.m. just as I had estimated. The shoulder on the highway up to the hotel was nice and wide so it was an easy walk.
It was such a cold day I didn’t even bother jumping in the shower first. In fact I don’t even stink. My feet are just barely dirty.
The first order of business today is taking every single item out of the pack and make sure that it can dry. All the clothes in the dry bags are fine but the outside of the dry bags are wet and need to be dried.
The biggest pain of the butt after a rain is drying all my money. I bought a new wallet for this trip because it’s supposed to be waterproof. But it’s far from it and all my bills get stuck together and my credit cards as well.
Another crazy sunset.
I feel like a poker player laying out all my dollar bills next to each other in a row. Do you know how hard it is to separate a stack of wet bills? It can be quite challenging.
The water has also damaged my American Express. The back plastic is delaminating from the metal core. I can’t lose this part because it has the numbers on it and the magnetic stripe. It has everything but the chip on it.
By the time everything is straight about the room, it is just about time for dinner. My choice is either the Love’s truck stop next door with a McDonald’s and a Subway or across the street to go to a Waffle House.
It’s been so long since I’ve been to a Waffle House and I’m actually craving breakfast. So across the street I go. Waffle House is good, but it’s not great. Sometimes it’s more fun just to go and watch the people there.
Then it’s back to the room to shower and start blogging. It was getting really cold outside so I couldn’t wait just to get under the hot water. I’m really not very dirty considering I just hiked 20 miles.
The hotel breakfast doesn’t open until 7:00 in the morning, so it would be another slow start tomorrow. That is just fine, I only need to go 19 miles. It’s the day after tomorrow that I need to kick it up a notch.
Emotion of the Day
I’m not sure I can zero in on a single emotion.
The morning was unpleasant with the rain and the cold. Then the middle of the day was quite cold. Then the afternoon warmed up. And now I’m in a warm and dry hotel room.
But the whole day all I was thinking about was walking. I felt a bit like Forrest Gump. “I just felt like running.”
I had a good rhythm. I wasn’t rushed or hurried at all. I was just hiking. Even on the road walk in the rain, it still felt like hiking.
I guess the emotion would have to be ordinary.
Nothing stood out today. Rain is normal. Road walking is normal. Cold temperatures are normal. Walking in oak trees is normal. Crossing streams on little Bridges is normal. And apparently now hotels are normal.
Exploding bombs aren’t normal, but that was only about 30 minutes of the day.
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