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Day 40 Aucilla to St Marks Refuge

Today was a phenomenal day.

Aucilla was nice, but St Marks is nicer. It has been an odd but pleasant day today.

The Disappearing Aucilla River

The huge live oak limbs that I camped under last night kept my tent protected from dew. Only the very outer edge had any condensation probably all from my breath escaping out the bug netting edges.

I did not get up super early, since the store I will hit today is only a few hours away. I roll out just after 7 and there is plenty of light.

The first ten minutes of hiking I am always stiff and my Achilles tendons are sore. But after ten minutes of hobbling, they are warmed up and ready to go.

This entire area has many sink holes. Most of them have water in them, but some are dry. The Aucilla river eventually dead ends into one of them. And when a river dead ends into one, it means it is going underground.

There are sink holes all over this place.

The trail this morning follows the pattern of sink holes and the river disappears, then reappears elsewhere. Some of them are just a window to the river below, but some have visible flow in them proving it is part of the river system.

Back to Road Walking

Eventually the trail turns into another forest road. There are quarry ponds that begin to show up, then an actual quarry, then houses.

After a few miles we come to another highway. This is US 98 and does not have much automobile traffic on it, but it has a tremendous amount of truck and dump truck traffic on it. This is because there is another active quarry on this road and trucks are constantly pulling in or out of the quarry entrance.

One of the quarry ponds.

The shoulder is nice in some places and steep in others. With all the truck traffic, there is not much walking on the road.

I have to walk on this road for two segments. The first is about 2 miles to get to the convenience store, and the second is about 3 miles to get to St Marks National Wildlife Refuge.

JR’s Aucilla River Store

The miles go by quickly when you have food on your mind. I get there about 9:45 and they are supposedly open for breakfast still, but no one is in the kitchen. The lunch menu starts at 11, so I will wait for that. As long as I leave by noon, I will have plenty of time to get to my campsite before dark.

At the convenience store at last.

So back in the store, I buy mostly beverages and a can of spaghetti and meatballs. It is nice that they have a pull top can now. I just grabbed my spoon and ate it cold.

I decide to wait things out in the kitchen area since it is warmer in there and I can charge my phone. It is cold enough that I need to wear my jacket.

When 11 rolls by, there is still no one in the kitchen so I go back in the store and ask about the kitchen. The cashier has to manage both, so he goes out to round up his son to open the kitchen.

Thirty minutes later, I am eating a cheeseburger and fries. Yum. I grab an ice cream sandwich to go, and I am out of there at 11:45. I should have plenty of time.

The hike out of the store seems to have even more traffic than earlier in the day. I guess people are awake now.

St Marks National Wildlife Refuge

The road walk on the highway ends with another forest road walk onto the Refuge. There are many swampy areas that are hard to walk around, and my shoes get a little damp.

If this entire refuge is like this, then I might not make the campsite before dark.

After a mile or so of mud, a sign appears saying the next 1.8 miles are primitive trail. Oh great, it gets worse?

Does this mean the trail gets even worse?

Luckily, after just a quarter mile of ungroomed trail, it goes up onto an elevated levee or tramway. The hiking gets much easier and it is basically like walking on forest roads again.

The dense woods begin to thin, and the canals aside the levee begin to widen. I begin seeing animals off in the distance. First a raccoon, then later a wild pig. I don’t think either of them knew I was even there.

The forest is beginning to thin.

Plans for Tomorrow

Just about two miles from the campsite, the woods finally give way to grass estuaries and miles of nothing but grass. It is awesome.

Now it is starting to look like St Marks.

I come across a biker who stops and asks if I am a thru hiker. I tell him I am.

It turns out he thru hiked it last year and is back this year making up sections he missed or were closed. I tell him about my plan to swim the river tomorrow and he tells me he has a better idea.

He has a kayak and a paddle board, and will meet me at the river crossing tomorrow and let me paddle board across. I like that idea better since it will not matter if the water is cold or if the tide is low. And I won’t have to waterproof my pack.

It will simplify so many things and still be more fun than calling or flagging down a boat.

We exchanged numbers and will plan to be at the river between 10:30 and 11:00. Now I don’t need to worry about the post office closing at 1pm, either.

Camping by the Grasslands

The campsite for the night is a paddlers campsite. The dike goes out on a loop away from the main dike and has flat spots and shade trees. I set up the tent quickly because the no-see-ums are pretty bad. It is only 5:30 and they will only get worse.

Camp is set before the sun sets.

As soon as the tent is up, I cook dinner and let it sit to rehydrate. I go to the water and see how salty it is. I guess it’s about half the salt content or normal ocean water. It is good enough to wash my feet with, but not the face. I use fresh water for that.

The sun is beginning to set, so I set up both cameras on time lapse mode to grab video of the sunset. Between the two, one of them should come out ok.

A perfect sunset.

Just as I get them set up, two more hikers roll in. It is the couple I met just before Oviedo several hundred miles ago. They ran into Chuckles yesterday, so he should be close behind. I suspect I will see him in town tomorrow.

I could sleep here for a thousand years.

Emotion of the Day

It needs a few words, but relaxed happiness is what I will choose today.

I got a late start this morning, listened to some music, had a nice hike along the Aucilla river and sinks.

The road walk was not bad because it was cut in half by the store.

I was at the store for two hours, but was able to fully charge my phone while waiting. Other than being a little bored and wondering if they were even open today, it was relaxed.

When the trail got muddy, I began to get worried, but it quickly turned into a very nice trail again.

Hatching a plan for crossing the river tomorrow morning has put me at ease now.

And an awesome sunset to top it all off with.

Yep, today was a picture perfect hiking day. Let’s hope tomorrow is a picture perfect afternoon in town.

Day 39 Aucilla River

The 40 mile road walk is done. The 30 mile one outside of Cocoa was worse, but that doesn’t mean that this one was good. All the churches and less traffic definitely made a huge difference.

Out Before Light

Since I never officially got permission to camp at the church last night, I was eager to get going before it got light. I just stuck to my normal routine and was out by 6:45. 

And let me say that the new air mattress is just what the doctor ordered. The only problem I had last night is I kept having to let more air out to get it comfortable. I have been so used to over inflating it and then letting it become comfortable that it took some getting used to. But once it was set, it stayed perfect all night long.

But I did have one small panic moment. As I was setting things up I found something poking my leg. What I discovered was a sandspur that had made it onto my leggings.

And when I found it, I was laying on the air mattress so I had a huge panic attack that I had already punctured my brand new air mattress with a sandspur. Luckily, I already had the sleeping bag on top of the air mattress so it had protected the air mattress from another puncture.

Since there was no traffic, I didn’t even bother to use my headlamp when starting on the road that early. The road was paved now and had houses about every quarter mile. 

All sorts of animals at this house.

There is another church about 8 miles away and I thought about doing the turn counting game. But honestly, once you get past three you start to lose count so I didn’t bother with it.

After only a few miles the road turned to dirt again and was now in-between hunting leases that were all planted pines. No Trespassing signs were all along this section which ended up being a good four or five miles.

Dirt road walking is at least not stressful.

But later it turned to a paved road again with more houses just before we turned onto a different county road. And I encountered the strangest thing I’ve ever seen while hiking. Someone had a Pepsi machine in their front yard.

And by Pepsi machine in the front yard I don’t mean that they had one on their porch or up by their house. I mean that they had a Pepsi machine outside of their fence with electricity and fully functional. Yes, they installed a Pepsi machine specifically for hikers.

I was about to make coffee, but I think a Pepsi will make a decent substitute. So I buy one and drink it down and throw the can in their recycling bin.

No Coke, Pepsi. A Pepsi machine along the side of the road.

Should I go to Church?

When I got to the next church, it was 10:15. There were only seven cars there, and they had already started Sunday school. The regular service would start at 11:00 and probably not end until well after 12:00.

Even though I got an early start today, I don’t know if I can afford a 2-hour delay. My campsite is 25 and a half miles away today. There’s very little chance that I would be able to make it before dark.

I don’t even need water at this point, so I decide just to roll on past without resting or getting water. I will probably stop in about 45 minutes to eat first lunch.

Sunday school is in session.

I find a nice grassy spot in the sun about 30 minutes up the road so I decided to stop there to eat. Instead of getting out my thin pad I have been just sitting on my rain jacket lately. Much faster, much easier, and less chance of bringing prickly things in the tent with me to ruin my brand new air mattress.

I will be hitting a store tomorrow for lunch and I still have tons of food, so I eat a pretty sizable lunch. I go ahead and make coffee for the afternoon. I mixed a Trader Joe’s coffee cream and sugar with a Cafe Bustello espresso. I will drink half of it this afternoon and save half of it for the morning.

Aucilla Wildlife Management Area

The road walk is not over yet, but I begin seeing the familiar state management signs on one side of the road. This means I can legally dive into the woods to go to the bathroom. Things like that are important to hikers.

It takes several more miles before we actually turn off the public road onto a management area road and I am officially no longer road walking. I need to use finger quotes around officially because I am indeed still walking on a road, just not a public one.

The area has been clear cut, so it is pretty sunny and hot, too. In another mile and a half the trail actually enters the woods again.

It may look like a boring trail, but it is Nirvana after 40 miles of roads.

Before long, I catch sight of the Aucilla river. It looks like all the other blackwater rivers I have seen so far. The only one that was different was the Suwannee and that was just because of its massive size.

The trail begins to feel a lot like hiking along the Suwannee, but the ups and downs are not as steep or as high. It still does slow me down a little bit. On the roads I do about 3 miles an hour. On these trails I do about two and a half miles an hour.

The Aucilla River looks like any other blackwater river in Florida.

I did not anticipate the slowdown in pace, but I should have expected it. I am still about 7 miles away from where I intend to camp, so it will add 30 or 40 minutes to the trip. I am no longer second guessing my decision to skip church.

Humans

I still haven’t seen any more northbound hikers. This is not surprising, since we would all be going the same direction at roughly the same pace.

But I did end up seeing two south bounders today. One was in the morning between the two churches. We stopped and talked for 5 or 10 minutes about trail conditions ahead for each other. Apparently the Apalachicola Forest is a huge watery mess. Yay fun.

The second hiker was a girl who was on the phone when I passed her, so I got barely more than a hay and not even a slow down in pace. I guess she has important things to take care of.

On the dirt road section between the two churches, I had someone stop and ask if I needed a ride. On a road walk this happens almost every day. Very few people even know that they are driving on a hiking trail, but they know a boring road when they see one.

Later on when I was going to see one of the rapids on the Aucilla River, There are three guys splashing around in the water there. They knew about the trail and figured that I was hiking it. They asked a lot of questions about hiking the trail itself and my motivation for doing so. I gave him the standard spiel.

The last one was a set of three Jeeps where the trail crossed a Jeep Road. They also knew about the Florida Trail and asked if I needed some water. I was nearly at my campsite so I declined but without having actually tasted the water from the river yet I probably should have accepted their offer. Luckily the water from the river actually tastes pretty good.

I was able to make my campsite at 5:30 which is exactly when I wanted to get there. I like to get everything done while it is still light and then roll inside the tent and finish up doing things I don’t need light for.

Dinner was a sweet pork and rice peak refuel dinner that I added some butter to, a packet of tuna in oil, a few dehydrated mango slices, and two coconut macaroons. That’s a pretty good dinner.

Emotion of the Day

I think today’s emotion is just being at ease.

I knew the road walk would be ending today. I knew that with the other church and the river coming up that water would not be a problem today. I knew that it was going to start out cool and be overcast much of the day, so I knew weather was not going to be a problem today.

I knew that getting an early start would give me plenty of time to make my intended campsite today. And by skipping church, I was able to take several 20 minute rest breaks throughout the day. And because I was on lightly trafficked roads or in the woods, that was very easy to do whenever I wanted to.

Just knowing that I didn’t have to deal with buzzing cars for a while put me at ease. And knowing that I will hit a convenience store tomorrow with plenty of food in my food bag put me at ease. Knowing that I have a reservation at a bed and breakfast two nights from now in a town with a laundromat and two restaurants put me at ease.

Tomorrow should not be a difficult day and the day after should be even easier than that. Knowing that the next two days should have no painful sections puts me at ease.

Well, except for crossing the Saint Marks River. As long as I can get the marina to pick me up or wave a boat down to cross the river, then I know the bed and breakfast is only two blocks away.

Two blocks and one river away.

Day 38 The Church Walk

I am now in the middle of a 40 mile road walk. The only way to make it work is to walk from church to church along the road. They are spread out every 8 to 10 miles. I stopped at one last night and I stopped at one again tonight.

Let’s Get Going

I wanted to make sure I was back on the trail by 8:00 so we got up at 5:00 with the intention of leaving by 6:30. Having real coffee and a real breakfast really does make a difference. And we were able to get out by 6:35.

There are still a few food items that I need so we will have to make a stop on the way. I remembered a really nice fairly new truck stop called Busy Bee near Live Oak. I need a specific kind of Smart Water bottle to replace my coffee bottle and this place is likely to have it.

I topped off my snacks and get a new bottle but it’s not exactly the one I wanted but it will do. Buying water in bottles may be wasteful but it’s handy when you need a new bottle quickly.

We got to the dropoff site a little later than I wanted but I was still on the road before 8:30.

The first 3 miles is just hiking back to the interstate where we just came from. This should take only an hour. There is not much traffic so the hiking is pretty easy. It is cold so I have to wear my long shirt and gloves.

The first stop at the interstate is Ragan’s Family Campground. I stop at the RV park right at the interstate not realizing it is not the place I’m looking for. But I am able to get some water and use their bathroom.

The campground I’m looking for is actually a mile and a half further down Old St Augustine Road. And when I get there it is very nice.

Ragans Family Campground was quite nice.

I go to the campground store and buy a few walking snacks. It would not be a great place to try and resupply but they do have snacks to go.

Walking by Pastures

The first road is by cattle and horse country. There is a huge field planted with winter rye. But the cows and horses are not allowed in that field or they would eat every blade.

There are many houses along this road but it is still rural country. The road eventually turns to dirt and then gives way to timber and planted pines.

There is plenty of shade and it is easy walking. But with the temperature still on the slide cool side the shade isn’t really needed. I am still wearing my gloves but I have stripped down to just a short sleeve shirt by now.

The pines give way to live oak trees that tower over the road. It is very picturesque and reminds me of home. There are still cattle fields off in the distance.

Moo cows.

County Road 360

After 5 or 6 miles the road turns onto county Road 360 which is a paved road with a fair amount of traffic. The shoulder is not terrific but luckily the traffic is only a car about every 5 minutes.

I think I will be on this road for 14 or 15 miles. And every four or five miles the road changes character. At one point it merges with county Road 14 and becomes much busier.

But a few miles later it splits away from 14 again and becomes almost deserted but it is still paved. At this point I am only seeing a car about every 15 minutes.

It is still rural country with farms and timber on both sides of the road. The shoulder is still narrow but I’m on the roadway most of the time anyway.

I get to New Home Baptist Church at about 2:00. There are a few people there so I asked where I can get some water. This church allows camping out back but it is way too early to stop.

My destination for the evening is Sirmons Baptist Church, which is another nine miles away. By the time I have a little snack and start moving again I should be able to get there by 5:30.

A cemetary along the way.

Church Bound

After my Starbucks doubleshot at 2:30, the afternoon is going swiftly. I do stop a few times to grab some snacks but just for a few minutes each.

Before I left the previous Baptist Church, I counted the number of turns in the road on the way to the new one. I counted 15 on the map. I decided instead of trying to calculate miles or look at the time I will just count turns and know that when I get to 15 I should be there.

The plan actually worked even though five turns in doesn’t mean you’re a third of the way there. It kept me mentally entertained and made the afternoon go by faster.

I get to the church right on time at about 5:35. No one lives at the parsonage and there is a number for a deacon that you call to get permission. I called but there was no answer.

So I Scout around the back of the church and it looks like there’s a decent spot between two utility buildings. I will get a lot of dew tonight but at least I will be hidden from the road and the neighbors and the street lights.

And let me tell you there are a lot of neighbors. People just hanging out in their trucks listening to music and kids running around screaming like kids do. And people arguing.

I don’t like camping out here without explicit permission, but I don’t have much choice as there is no public property for the next 10 miles. This is home for the night.

I go ahead and do various chores like cooking and eating while it is still daylight but I won’t set up the tent until after dark. And it is already getting cold so it is going to be a chilly night tonight.

Emotion of the Day

I think confidence is a good word for today.

I wanted to get an earlier start because I had a very long day today. But because I was refreshed and rested from taking yesterday off I knew that I should be able to do it without stopping too much.

And since it was all walking on roads it should go quite quickly, which it does.

I could have stopped at the church before and had an easier day, but that would make my plans to get to St Mark’s harder.

I had to submit my permit to St Marks before leaving and they want to know specific dates and specific campsites where you will be camping. If I had not gone all the way to this particular Church I would have had a very difficult time making my intended campsites.

Knowing that I can bust out 24 miles with a shortened hiking day just gives me more confidence that I can do these kind of days whenever needed. And I am sure more will be needed.

Day 37 A Zero Day At Home

Most people think a zero-day means taking a day off and watching TV. And sometimes it can mean that. But in my case, it means catching up on five blog posts, washing and drying all my gear, planning the upcoming road walk, and getting permits submitted for the St Marks National Wildlife refuge (now that I know the dates).

There is also a box to pack for St Marks and mail today so that it arrives there before I do, going to REI to get some more free dried dinners and check out the shoe selection (very dangerous). I also have to pack my food bag to walk out with tomorrow. So a stop at Walgreens and Trader Joe’s is required, too.

There are people to visit while I am here, a quick work meeting to attend, and some maintenance around the house. I need to do a quick repair on my shoes, too. With only 300 miles on these shoes and 400 to go, it seems a waste to try to replace them now, but they do need a little shoe goo love in a few places.

With it raining here, too, I can’t clean my pack or tent, because they would not have time to dry.

It is far from a day of relaxing around the house.

I won’t pick an emotion today, but I definitely felt rushed all day long.

Day 36 Leaving the Suwannee

Leaving the Suwannee is a bit unceremonious. You duck away from the river on forest roads, then duck back to it one last time before embarking on a 48.8-mile road walk. There is a stop near an I-10 exit to Marianna, but other than that there is nothing on this road walk except six churches. but the road walk will wait.

Another Early Start

Food is the first order of the day, and making it to the Midway Baptist Church as early as possible is the second order of business. This is the church where Karen will be picking me up today to spend a day off back in Gainesville.

The air mattress seems to be getting worse each day, so I will be eager to get home to switch out air mattresses. Because it is so uncomfortable, I have no problem getting moving early. I am rousting by 5:30 and moving by 6:30. The goal is to make the food store that is 3 miles away by 8:30.

But there are a few things between here and there. There is a boxed spring that I want to visit that outflows into the river. If the river is low, the spring is fresh. If the river is high, the spring is inundated with river water. It takes me perhaps 45 minutes to get there, and the river is a little high – perhaps eight inches above the outflow, but the spring looks pretty clear to me. Maybe the discharge is strong enough to keep out most of the tannic river water.

The boxed spring has some inindation from the river when I pass by it. I woudl love to see it when the river level is lower.

Where the spring is, there is an information kiosk that mentions the Jay Veer store I will visit. It says the store does not open until 8 am. That sounds ridiculous. What convenience store opens that late? That’s not convenient.

I get to the store by 7:30 and they are indeed open for business. In fact, when I first enter the store, they are putting out fresh fried chicken! Mmmm. I will take two thighs to go, please. But I order the two-egg breakfast to satisfy my morning’s hunger since I did not eat much for breakfast yet.

Breakfast is done, chicken is wrapped, and an ice cream cone as a walking snack. Life is good. Now it is time to hit the third obstacle of the day – the Ted Bundy bridge. There is supposedly some graffiti from Ted Bundy, the serial killer from the 70s on the bridge. There is a description in the guide as to where to find it, but the bridge is so weathered, that I think any graffiti from the 70s is long obscured. I never find it.

The bridge commonly known as Ted Bundy bridge becasue there was supposedly graffiti from him from 1976 on one end of the bridge that I could never find.

Now it is time to get hoofing to the destination for the day. The trail continues to bounce around the Suwannee river all morning. At one campsite that has a picnic table along the river, I stop to eat chicken thigh #1.

More Road Walking

By noonish, the trail has moved onto a lightly used forest road. It ducks back towards the river for a brief stint, but after just a few miles, it is back on the same road again, but this time for good. I have seen the last of the Suwannee River for the trip.

I shoudl also mention that I crossed I-10 again. The frist time was south to north in the Osceola National Forest. This time is it north to south. I know I will cross it again in Crestview, and I know I will get very, very close ten miles into this road walk. It get’s me to wondering, just how many times will I end up crossing under or over I-10 on this hike?

The second crossing of Interstate 10 on this trip. How many will there be on the entire trip?

Just before beginning the road walk, I stop in the shade for chicken thigh #2. Yum. I still have plenty of water to make the rest of the day, as long as the temperatures stay down. And there is a cool breeze, so the temperatures indeed stay comfortable. There is some shade, but I use the umbrella for most of the afternoon.

About halfway through this dirt road walk, a local trail maintainer stops by and chats for a while. He mentions that the bay is closed, and I did not think to ask at the time, but I hope he is not referring to Bradwell bay because that is one of the main attractions of the trail. It is still several days away, so I guess I will find out soon enough.

He gives me options for the road walk that don’t seem any shorter or easier, so I will stick to the marked route. The devil you know (or have guidebook for) is usually better than the devil you don’t know.

Peanut farming with pivot irrigation along the road walk.

The dirt road ends into a county road, CR 53. This road has a fair amount of traffic, but I can spend 90% of the time walking on the roadway, so I’m not too upset.

By this time, Karen has already left Gainesville. I have only four miles to go, and she has nearly two hours. I will win. But she encounters an accident on the interstate on the way up, so she is delayed. I should get to the church a half hour before she will.

The next destination after the church is the campground at the I-10 interchange where CR 53 comes up to it. It is three miles away and would take me an extra hour to get to. I am better off staying at the church and waiting for her. Being able to sneak more miles in today is enticing because it means I can start later on Saturday. But only being able to get halfway there is not enticing enough.

When I arrive at the church road, there is an abandoned old-time gas station. There aren’t any No Trespassing signs, so I decide to just plop down here on the concrete in the shade. The church is several tenths down the side road. There’s no point in walking extra miles that don’t get me any closer to Pensacola.

Right on time, Karen arrives, and a quick wash later, I have clean clothes and we are on our way home. With a pit stop in Alachua to hit my favorite pizza shop. The only problem is the shop has closed its doors. But luckily, my second favorite pizza shop in Alachua is just across the street. Pizza will be consumed.

Emotion of the Day

I think it has to be relief.

While I still have about 40 miles of road walking ahead of me, I am not worried about that today. What matters is that I have clean clothes, a shower, a comfy bed, a beautiful wife, and a home to go to.

I am relieved to know that I can get more tent stakes, a new air mattress, and replace other broken or missing items. A trip to REI will be in the cards tomorrow.

The day was not stressful, the road walks were manageable, and the temperatures were comfortable. It was not a bad day of hiking at all, but just a little boring.

I am also greatly relieved that I will not be walking through the rains that are starting to build. It will rain all night tonight and most of the day tomorrow. That does not sound like fun rod walking conditions.

So I am relieved that I am able to skip a bad weather day and get all the creature comforts of home for a day instead. Maybe I can also catch up on my blogging.

Day 35 A Shower at Last

I think it was Forrest Gump that said something like the happiest day in a kid’s life was the day he got a new pair of shoes. Well, the best day in a hiker’s life is the day he got a shower.

Early Start

I have to try to go as far as I can manage today to chip away at the mileage for tomorrow. But there are two obstacles between me and wherever I will camp tonight. And that is two parks that have showers.

I have lost track of the days since I last had a shower in Palatka, but it has been many. The number of days since the last laundry is even larger. The last shower and laundry day was at the 88 store in Ocala. That was hundreds of miles ago.

I managed to get rolling by 6:45 in the morning which is good enough. It was dark enough that I needed to use the headlight for at least 15 minutes. It is much darker in the morning when it is foggy and it’s definitely foggy today.

I am camped between the old 129 bridge and the new 129 bridge. The first obstacle is getting past the new 129 bridge.

The trail is difficult to follow as it goes on and off some dirt roads near the bridge. I end up taking off in the wrong direction. Instead of going towards the water side of the bridge to go under it, I start heading towards the ramp side that would take me over it.

And not only that but I also have a creek to cross. It is about 8 ft wide where the trail crosses it. There’s no way I’m taking my shoes off this early in the morning. I start hunting for alternate crossings upriver because I thought I remembered reading about an area upstream.

About 50 yards upstream there are a few rocks but not enough to make it all the way across. So I keep looking. About 100 yards upstream I see the crossing with many many rocks. This one looks doable.

A massive three foot Florida waterfall.

Normally I don’t shy away from rock hopping across streams. But in this case, it is still dark and I am having to hold my flashlight. If I lose my balance I am likely to drop the flashlight and that would not be a good thing. I guess I better not screw up.

The crossing goes nice and easy. The trick to any kind of crossing is to keep moving and actually try and go as fast as possible. But you have to be able to anticipate a rock or a log that’s going to move and change your trajectory. But your balance is so much better when you’re moving than when you’re standing still that it’s worth the risk to go faster.

After the stream and the bridge across the highway are out of the way, it’s easy hiking in the woods along the river. The entire morning should be walking pretty close to the river.

Holton Creek Paddler Camp

My first destination is the paddler’s camp that I should be heading some time after 11:00. The state has set up these small campgrounds spaced out along the Suwanee River. They have several buildings that are basically just screened-in walls with wooden floors for sleeping in. I think the cost is only $6.50 a night.

But what I am interested in are the showers. They have free hot showers for the paddlers and hikers. When I get there one of the park volunteers is just finished cleaning them and let me know that only two of them have hot water and two of them only had cold water. That is good to know.

The screened-in rooms at the paddler’s camp.

I pick one of the hot showers and immediately scrub days worth of funk off of myself. I always carry a small bottle of shampoo for just such occasions when you are taking a shower in a campground. 

Shampoo can work as a body wash and laundry soap, too. So I also take the time to wash a pair of underwear and a shirt to use for tomorrow. I will wear the pair I washed in the Suwanee River yesterday after the shower.

I noticed as I put them on that they also smell slightly like algae just like the water I collected from the same location. Let me tell you the smell of algae is way better than what I smelled like 20 minutes ago.

I grab one of the picnic tables and begin eating lunch. For some reason, I am very hungry today.

There is a new camp host just setting up for a 3-month shift at this campsite. They are a couple from North Carolina and they will be living in their small travel trailer for the next 3 months. Where do I sign up for this job?

Once lunch is done, it’s time to head out. The trail is pretty much the same here as before. The trail is high on the bluffs and going up and down each ravine is actually quite challenging. But the view makes up for the extra effort.

The Alapaha River

Only a few miles past the paddler’s camp there is a trail closure and reroute notice. There is no information about the reroute other than signs posted on the ground to go this way or to go that way.

Trail closed ahead becasue this whole section was clear cut from logging.

Halfway through the reroute, it is obvious this section was closed because it was logged recently and the trail has been completely obliterated.

It ends up being a road walk on forest roads in the same general direction and length as the original trail. The only difference is there are no trees so it is a hot walk.

I know that more road walks are going to get more frequent and longer coming up, so every place that I can get water I go ahead and fill up to the full capacity. I filled up completely at the paddler’s camp and will fill up again at the next park, Gibson park.

I get to the park at about 2:30. This is a perfect time to use the restroom, fill up more water, and drink my afternoon coffee. They also have a shower, but they charge for it and it is locked. I am glad I showered at the paddler’s camp.

This stuff is a quick one and I keep going on. The trail from the park is a short road walk across another river. This time it is the Alapaha River. It is a black water river just like this 20 but about half the width. The current is much faster than the Suwannee, too.

I remember this section well from when I hiked this six years or so ago. I know that the trail will be going by lots of homes and on and off back roads to get around private property.

After five or six miles around this new river the river eventually merges with the Suwannee. So now I am hiking along the Suwanee River again.

Gibson park charges for their showers.

Where to Camp

I would love to be able to make the Jay Veer convenience store that is just on the other side of Ted Bundy bridge. But it is still many miles away and it would be after dark by the time I got there. There is an RV park next door that allows camping for $10.

But in my food bag, I have plenty of dinners. What I am short of is breakfasts. In fact, I am out of breakfasts.

Maybe a better plan is to just try and get within an hour of the store and head there for breakfast. I am sure they are open at 6:00 or 7:00 in the morning. They have a grill that serves hot food. People rave over the fried chicken but I’m sure their breakfast is good as well.

There is a campsite just a mile and a half from the store and this would be a perfect place to stop. But as I get closer to my destination I realize it be after 6:30 by the time I get there and it will be dark.

There is a short road walk just before that campsite, so I need to either stop a little early or push and try and make it all the way. I can hear traffic from the road so I know how far I can go before I run out of woods. If I can find a good spot before I hit the road, I will go ahead and stop.

As luck would have it, I did find a really good spot probably 4/10 of a mile away from the road. It has lots of oak trees which will protect me from the dew tonight. This campsite is even better than last night’s.

I can hear a few mosquitoes, so I set the tent up quickly and begin cooking my meal. I will make sure it is a good one tonight because I am very hungry again. I select an Alpine Aire brand. It is a three-cheese alfredo and looks pretty good.

Once the meal is cooked and sitting for the required 10 to 15 minutes, I finish setting up everything inside the tent. I even take the time to take a little bath. I don’t want that wonderful shower to go to waste.

I finally crawl into the tent and begin eating my meal. It is wonderful. It could use a little more sauce, but it tastes far superior to the brand that I don’t like. Maybe I should have added some butter to it to bulk up the sauce.

It is a warm evening again and I doubt I will get inside the sleeping bag until well after midnight. I will get up and try and be out hiking by 6:30 or 6:45 again. I have two small sausages to eat for breakfast and that’s about it. It will be a long three miles to the store but I am sure that the breakfast that awaits me will make it a trip worth making.

From where I am camping now it is 22 miles to the Baptist Church where Karen will pick me up tomorrow. An early start will be required to make it on time. And I Will not be able to spend too much time at the convenience store.

This bridge was a bit janky, but held up to the test.

Most of tomorrow will be road walking so I should make good time. I will load up on as much water as I can carry because I know it will be long stretches without water and it is probably going to be hot tomorrow.

Emotion of the Day

I think I will choose Bliss.

You just have no idea how good that shower felt. Even though the clothes I put on afterward were not actually washed, they were at least fresh.

I felt like a whole new person after that shower. Shower and laundry would have been even better but I only have one more day until all the showers and all the laundry my heart desires.

And even though I am a mile or so short of where I wanted to end up tonight I am still within a striking distance of where I want to be tomorrow. And that is a good feeling.

Day 34 The Suwannee River

Most of my day revolves around sunlight and food. Keep it simple Sam.

White Springs

The primary job in town tomorrow is to reach the post office when they open at 8:00 a.m. The one restaurant in town opens at 5:00 a.m. so that’s no problem. I am about an hour away, so if I leave at 6:30 I can eat breakfast at 7:30 and pick up my package at 8:00.

The campsite I picked out ended up being a good one. Oak leaves shielded most of the tent from the morning dew, so it was barely damp when I packed it up. I wasn’t able to get out at 6:30, but I was out at 6:45. This will have to be good enough.

It was dark enough that I needed to use my lamp when I was in the trees. But once I was out on the road, I didn’t need it anymore.

It is harder to follow blazes in the dark because orange on brown doesn’t show up well without a light on it. I got lost under the bridges, so I wasn’t sure how to get up to the road. I would have done better just to take the access road all the way to the highway instead of following the trail in the dark.

The bridge across the river was not very long and it was extremely wide. It had ample space for pedestrians to safely cross with the traffic.

No problems for pedestrians in White Springs, FL.

On the other side of the river, the trail snaked along the river some more before popping up into town from the south.

I was going to grab some cheese sticks at Dollar General, but they don’t open until 8:00. So I just headed straight for the restaurant to eat breakfast. I was able to charge my phone and battery some while I was eating.

There is a laundromat in town, but I don’t feel like waiting two hours to do laundry. There is a convenience store, so I stopped to get some coffee and a few food items I know are not in my box at the post office.

I finally get to the post office just a few minutes after 8:00. I quickly get my box and go to the lobby area and continue charging my phone and battery bank while I unpack my box.

The box was packed with supplies to get me another 200 miles. But I am only going to be going 70 or 75 miles so there are way more of certain supplies than I am going to need.

The pack was much heavier when I put it on and headed out of town. When I was already 2 miles away, it dawned on me that I was sitting at a post office and could have easily mailed a lot of the things I didn’t need back home. This is why I need to write things down. I could have dropped at least 4 lbs right there at the post office.

Hiking Along the Suwannee

The trail exits town through the Steven Foster Center. The park is a ghost town in the morning, but that is just fine for a solo hiker.

It’s only been a few years since I hiked this section so everything looks pretty familiar.

If it’s not a river, then it’s palmettos.

Once the trail gets out of the park, you are mostly walking on the bluffs above the Suwannee River. Because the trail is on the bluffs, there is a lot of up and down in the trail. And when it goes up and down it is usually steep. I am not going to be able to do as many miles today as usual because of the extra elevation.

The elevation doesn’t slow you down because it’s a long climb that tires you out. It slows you down because it’s so steep it’s actually hard to climb or descend. Some places are so steep I’m surprised it hasn’t washed away years ago.

The trail doesn’t always stay within sight of the river, though. There are private residences in certain sections along the river. 

Most of the time the trail will route away from the river to go around the residences. But in other sections, they actually go between the residences’ backyards and the River itself. One resident even put a water spigot right at the fence line for hikers to fill up from. Thank you, resident.

If it’s a river, then it’s big river.

There were a few sections that I had forgotten about but remembered once I got there. One of them was a really high bluff that was far higher than the bluff on the other side of the river. It seemed like we were actually looking down on the treetops on the opposite shore.

There were also mountain bike trails and horse trails intermingled with the hiking trail. And in some sections, the mountain bike trail and the hiking trail were the same trail.

The Suwannee is a nice river to walk along.

Hot Weather

The forecast was that it was supposed to stay in the ’70s today. But the morning stayed foggy for so long that I started out pretty wet and damp. By noon it was quite warm and I was sweating pretty decently.

I am wearing a fresh set of clothes today in hopes that I can find a place to do a quick wash in the river where I can find a rocky section that I can scrub my clothes on. I find one at about 11:00 a.m. so I stop to wash out some things and filter some water at the same time.

I would later regret filtering water at this location. I didn’t taste it when I collected it, but when I started drinking it afterward it tasted like green algae. Definitely not a refreshing drink.

When I stopped for lunch, I made a chicken salad wrap and ate some chips. Since I have so much food there’s no point in trying to ration anything. If I have it and I want it, I should eat it.

What I really need is either some powdered Gatorade or better water. I know there is a stream that flows into the river coming up, so I decide I will wait until then and just get all new water.

Streams leading into the river are better sources of water than the Suwannee itself.

It wasn’t until 2:00 when I found a stream that had what looked like really good water. I dumped what I had left of the algae water and filtered an entirely fresh set.

I also used this time to drink the rest of the Starbucks double shot I packed out from town. It’s amazing how effective coffee is with hiking. It’s like a three or four hour energy pill.

Where to Camp

I really would like to get a shower today. I have a few options available. There is a side trail to a convenience store across the river at the spot I should be at around 5:00. It is 5 miles from here to the town of Live Oak where there are several hotels. Or across the street is the Spirit of the Suwannee Park which has cabin rentals.

The plan is to walk to the convenience store and then see if I can get Uber service into Live Oak. If I can get an Uber ride, then hotel time it is.

The Bridge to the convenience store is full of graffiti.

If I can’t get an Uber ride, then I will call the Spirit of the Suwannee to see if they have any cabins. The worst case is they do have a campground with showers available.

As I expected, I cannot get an Uber into town even after trying twice. I am not going to road walk five miles and I’m not going to hitch five miles away without knowing I can get back easily.

So I decided to call the park across the street. It is not even 6:00 p.m. yet and the phone just goes to hold music for over 20 minutes. I hang up and call again and the same thing. I’m not even sure they are open.

So with both of those plans failing, I have no choice but to hike back out to the trail and just camp somewhere. I find a decent place between the old 129 bridge and the new 129 bridge. I’m only a quarter mile away from the new bridge so it will be a little noisy for most of the night.

After looking at the maps again, there will be a few options for showers tomorrow. I will be passing a paddler camp that has shower facilities that I can probably use. There is also another convenience store with an RV Park, and a county park.

 I know the county park has showers and the RV park should, too. It will be a very long day to make it that far so I’m going to have to get up early again just to have a fighting chance.

Emotion of the Day

Even though as I write this I am tired from the ups and downs of the trail, it is not the emotion that is sticking with me.

What is sticking with me is disappointment.

Disappointment with not being able to get into Live Oak to a hotel where I could shower and do laundry to be comfortable for the next two days.

Disappointment with staring directly at a facility that rents cabins but won’t answer their phone. I could have just walked over there and taken my chances but that would have used all of the remaining daylight I had left to find a campsite.

I think there was also a little disappointment with the trail itself. I didn’t remember as much of the trail being away from the river as their actually was today. Not that that’s a deal breaker, it is just more boring walking through the woods with nothing but palmettos to look at.

But also disappointment of not thinking to mail back extra items that I won’t need for the next three days. I had a golden opportunity to shed four pounds on the spot. But it is disappointing that it took me 2 miles of hiking to even think of the idea.

There’s also some disappointment with the water. Here I am next to a river that I can bathe in but it’s too cold and there are warning signs all over the place to not swim in it because of alligators. I can rinse my clothes out and beat them on a rock, but that’s not the same as a washing machine. And that is disappointing.

All in all, it was still a good day. But it’s disappointing that it wasn’t a great day when it easily could have been. We will try again tomorrow to have a great day.

Day 33 Big Shoals

I am now on a new map section. And I will spend the next 3 days walking along the Suwannee River. This should be a fun few days as long as it does not get too hot.

Slow Start

It was another warm night last night but I knew not to layer up this time. I didn’t even get into the sleeping bag until nearly midnight.

Even though I woke up early and was camping 70 yards away from Chuckles, I did not get as early a start as I would have liked. I didn’t want to make a bunch of noise and wake him up too early.

I started packing at 7:00 and was heading out at 7:30. Chuckles was up and making coffee. Neither one of us is planning on going into town today but I am not sure if I will see him at all during the day.

It’s a State Park, am I trespassing or not?

The ground is damp with dew. And the area is a bit swampy and has quite a bit of sphagnum moss. My feet get a little wet, but nothing bad. There are bridges over the worst sections.

One thing that is annoying this morning is that there is more coyote crap than I have ever seen on a trail before. It’s not an uncommon sight, but these jokers are crapping every 10th of a mile right in the middle of the trail.

I tried to avoid all their gifts but eventually, find one that is hidden in the grass. I am accompanied by the smell of fresh dog crap for the next 20 minutes.

I am low on water, so I stop at the next campsite which is an equestrian camp with a flush toilet and running water. I might as well make use of both. I fill up my two main bottles but do not put water in my coffee bottle which will come to hunt me later.

Leaving Osceola National Forest

Nearly the entire forest is exactly the same. It is pine trees and palmettos and occasionally swamp and cypress. The trail is frequently on double-track roads but is also a single-track dedicated trail much of the time. The only thing to break the boredom is kicking pine cones.

I finally exit the forest at about 11:30. I decided to take a small break and eat a little bit because I have many miles of road walking ahead of me. I go ahead and mix some Gatorade in my drinking bottle and have just a splash in my main bottle. I hope this will be enough for the whole walk.

More Road Walking

The first mile-plus is a small paved road that is not too bad. There is a short section on the highway to get up to a different dirt road. This dirt road goes on for many miles.

It eventually turns down a small paved road which is a country road without much traffic. I think it was about a mile and a half long and I don’t even remember any cars passing on the entire length.

By now it is getting pretty hot and I am very thirsty. I am nearly out of Gatorade and I need to make sure that I can make coffee between two and three in the afternoon.

The road walk finally ends and turns into a trail that has a decent amount of shade. I have about 2 miles until the Suwannee River and the first availability of water, but it is already nearly 3:00.

There is a section of thick pines with a heavy layer of pine needles on the trail. There is a large amount of shade and a cool breeze so I decide to just pop down on the pine needs and rest. I have now finished all of my Gatorade and have only the tiny splash of water to make coffee with.

There is not even an ounce of water, but I go ahead and make coffee with it. The entire amount takes only two sips to complete and it is very strong. But oddly it is not any stronger than real espresso, so it is actually quite pleasant to drink.

After 10 minutes of laying in the pine needles in the breeze, the caffeine begins to hit my brain and I start to get some energy. I have only one mile to the river and all the water I can drink.

On the way to the river, I meet another hiker. We stand in chat for at least 15 minutes. But I am distracted because I only have water on my mind.

May I Have a Cup of Water, Please?

It is a quick ten minutes to the river. And the first point you come to the river is a canoe launch, so there is easy access to the Suwannee River.

At Big Shoals and the Suwannee River at last.

I immediately fill my water bladder and begin filtering some water. Once two or three oz are filtered I switch bottles and drink the two or three oz. I do this three or four times until I feel I have drank enough water for now.

The next order of business is to take off my shoes and socks and go wading in the water. I grabbed my bandana and soak various parts of my body. I start with the head and the neck and cold water feels great. Next the arms and the legs. Last is the feet.

I was originally planning on going swimming, but the water is really cold. I think it would be quite painful to try and swim in this. But washing myself with a bandana is very refreshing.

I fill up both of my bottles and dry my feet off to put my shoes back on. Just this twenty minutes up by the river has made me feel like a new person. With the recent consumption of coffee, I should be good to go for three more hours. The campsite I’m planning to stop at is about an hour and a half away.

Walking Along the Suwannee

The area where we enter the Suwannee is called Big Shoals. It is called this because there are some substantial rapids in the river here. I have been here before, but on the other side of the river.

The river varies from bluffs that are 40 ft above the water to white sandy beaches right at the water. It is a bigger version of the Little Big Econ State Park.

There is a wide variety of vegetation on the bluffs. It is a mix of pine, palmettos, scrub oak, cypress, and all sorts of small bushes. They seem to be all just growing together in one big giant mess.

This tree started growing when there was far more dirt on the riverbank than there is now.

When I finally get to the area I was planning on camping at, I can see that it has road access and is very heavily visited with lots of trash. I don’t think I will be camping here.

I keep moving along the river but the palmettos ruin any chance of having a nice campsite. Every time I think I see a clearing away from the trail I find out that it is actually a mountain bike trail. I doubt there will be any mountain bikers overnight but I still don’t want to camp in the middle of a trail.

I finally find a large flat area near Little Shoals. It is nearly 6:00, so I need to stop soon because the tent is still wet. I have less than 30 minutes of daylight left and I also don’t want to get too close to town since the post office won’t open until 8:00 in the morning. This site checks all the boxes, so I stop.

I still have plenty of water, but I have an entire river next to me if I need more. But of the few miles I have hiked along the Suwannee already, it is evident that the best water is going to be the small streams that flow into it. Most of these streams look quite clear.

The Niagara falls of Florida.

Pick one Emotion

I think I would pick thirst today.

I was only actually thirsty for about an hour today. But it was quite hot and when you are getting thirsty, it is a very unpleasant experience.

It is a strong enough feeling that it overpowers all of the boredom of the morning walk out of the National Forest.

It also dulls the excitement of reaching the Suwannee River at last.

If you have ever been truly thirsty, you should remember what a strong feeling it is. Since dehydration is one of the quickest ways to die, I guess the body has been wired very strongly to pay attention to this trigger.

I was never in any danger, but I really, really wanted to make coffee. I would have rather had it in the normal 8 oz quantity, rather than the 1 oz triple shot variety.

But I got my coffee and I got my water, so all is well. 

The next three days of hiking along the Suwannee should be fantastic. Is fantastic an emotion? Find out tomorrow.

Day 32 Osceola National Forest

Last night was the opposite of the night before. Instead of freezing cold, it was smoking hot.

Early Start

I expected last night to be cold, so I layered up when I went to bed. But as the night went on it never got cooler. I was stripping off layers all through the night.

I am going to be meeting Brook and Alyssa today at the Olustee trailhead. I also want to get as close to White Springs as I can. So today is a good day to start early.

I wake up at 4:30, but I’m not ready to start quite that early. I listen to music until 5:30 and then I begin my routine. I am able to get out at 6:45, but because the sky is overcast, I need to use my headlamp.

It rained lightly several times during the evening. And it is raining on and off while I’m listening to music and getting ready. But lucky for me, the rain has pretty much stopped by the time I get outside the tent to pack it up.

Not the best weather, but at least I’m not sweating.

I have been practicing packing the pack fully except for the tent and my rain jacket for situations exactly like this. Once the pack is ready, it should only take 5 minutes to take the tent down and get it packed up.

The morning wasn’t hot, but I definitely wouldn’t call it cold either. It was comfortable hiking weather other than the humidity. And it continued to sprinkle on and off for the first few hours. It never rained hard enough to get out the rain gear.

Most of the morning was hiking on forest roads. The GPS tracks and blazes seemed to indicate there was an actual trail just off the roadway. But every time I looked for an actual trail, it never materialized. So after a while, I just kept on the roads and stopped even looking for a trail.

Osceola National Forest

At some point in the morning, one of the roads I crossed signaled the entry into the Osceola National Forest. The forest didn’t look any different, only the color of the road signs was different. It is nothing but pines and palmettos here with the occasional swamp filled with cypress.

The plan to meet Brook and Alyssa was for them to park at the Olustee battlefield. I would be hiking East toward the battlefield so they would start out hiking West.

It worked out perfectly and we met about half a mile from the parking area. We went back to the parking area and ate lunch at a picnic table. They brought me some oranges and other goodies.

After lunch, we walked North together continuing on the trail. They got to see some of the swampier areas and walk some of the boardwalks. We said our goodbyes and they turned around to go back to their truck to head home.

The rest of the afternoon was more pines and palmettos. That literally is all that is out here unless it is a swamp. I never realized that the Osceola National Forest and the Okefenokee swamp actually meet borders at the Florida-Georgia line. The Osceola National Forest is just the continuation of the Okefenokee swamp in Florida.

Wading Through Water

Since the palmettos were very dense, I did not have high hopes for finding a random campsite. There is an official shelter and campsite that I should reach at about 5:30. This will be my destination for the day.

About 2 miles before I get there, I come to a pretty long water crossing. I have been lucky all day in that I have been able to walk around all of the water I encountered so far. But this is far more water than I’ve encountered today.

Since my feet are filthy and have not been washed in a few days, I decided it is best to just take my shoes off and walk through the water. I am also out of drinking water and instead of taking a half-mile detour to a nearby campground, I decided that the swamp here is an excellent source of water.

Wading through the water to clean my feet.

To my surprise, when I am halfway through the water I noticed that there is a bridge in the middle of it. But the water is so deep that the bridge is completely submerged under water. I guess it’s a high-water year here.

While my water is filtering, I sit down to dry and clean my feet and put my shoes back on. I go ahead and fill up with two and a half liters just in case it is hot in the morning.

Official Campsite

It takes about an hour to get to the campsite and shelter. When I get there I am happy to see that Chuckles has just recently gotten there and already set up his gear.

It looks like there are mosquitoes in this area, and with a malfunctioning air mattress, I decided it was best to camp in my tent instead of staying in the shelter. I go ahead and set up my tent and then bring my food and stove back to the shelter to cook dinner with Chuckles.

Interstate 10 crossing number one.

We have a nice chat for about an hour before everything is done and the Sun is gone.

Back in the tent, I can tell that it is going to be another night of humidity and heat. Joy. Surprisingly, there are almost no mosquitoes. This is surprising since there’s a nearly stagnant Creek right next to the shelter.

Emotion of the Day

The emotion for today should deal with seeing Brook and Allyssa, or reuniting with Chuckles. Or maybe with a rainy evening or a rainy morning. But it doesn’t.

All I seem to be fixated on today is the fact that the blazes and the map indicate there should be a trail along the side of the roads. And the blazing was just bizarre beyond belief.

Assuming that the trail actually was the forest road, the blazing was sometimes 30 ft off of the road on the border marker trees.

And when the road made a turn to the left or the right, there would be double blazes on trees several hundred yards before the turn. Normally the double blazes are right at the turn. When you are traveling at 3 mph you don’t need a lot of advance notice. I am not driving in a car.

It was actually very confusing. There were no intersecting roads or other trails, like you were going to get lost anyway.

It was not like yesterday evening when I was actually getting angry and frustrated. I was just in shock and disbelief at some of the blazes I was seeing.

So I guess the emotion for today is disbelief. Or maybe confusion. I’m not sure which word captures it best.

Day 31 Lake Butler

Last night was the coldest night of the trip so far. I know this because my water bottles were frozen about the top eight inch of water. After 4:00 a.m. it was miserable trying to sleep.

Sleeping

The site I selected last night was in a grassy area of planted pines. The grass was in clumps and very uneven. Luckily my butt was in a hole and my shoulders were on a clump as well as my knees so it made a natural cradle to sleep in.

At about 12:30, I was visited by some coyotes. I could tell they were walking down the tracks and could smell me. They barked for about a half an hour. I was just thankful it wasn’t hunters with dogs looking for hogs.

I began my morning routine at 5:00 since I had been shivering for an hour, and was eager to get up. I had to break the surface layer of ice in the water bottles to be able to take my morning pill. I didn’t listen to music, since I wanted to stay alert.

Despite the early start, I still didn’t get out until 7:00 when it was already light enough to hike. I was hoping to get out a little earlier today. But the cold weather was not cooperating.

Once I got moving, I warmed up quickly. But I was bundled up in several layers including my puffy jacket. I was eager to shed this jacket because it would easily tear on the thorns along the trail. I only wore it for about 30 minutes.

The frost on the ground was very thick and lasted for nearly 2 hours in the shade. So I know it was well below 30 degrees even though the forecast said that Lake Butler was 35° last night.

The Trail to Lake Butler

The trail continued as an unpaved roadway of top the old rail bed. After a few miles, it stopped becoming a road and was just a footpath. Because the grass was still frozen, my feet didn’t get wet from morning dew.

About halfway to Lake Butler there is a reroute out to highway 100 for about 2 miles, and then back. The detour out and back is an additional 2 miles. I can see the trail goes over a river, so I’m assuming there is no serviceable bridge and that’s why we have to walk along the road.

I consider taking my chances of continuing on the trail and dealing with whatever water I encounter. But there are several reasons I decided not to try it.

The first was that about 3 mi before the reroute, there was another river that had a bridge This one was only 20 yards from the road so it was easy to run out to the road and cross on the highway bridge and then run back to the trail. This Creek was wide enough that you definitely wouldn’t want to walk across it but you could if you had to.

If this first one is not rerouted, then the second one must be even bigger than this.

Reason number two is that if there is no traffic for that 2 mi section, then the trail will be even more overgrown than it currently is. After seeing what happened at the other end of the trail towards Palatka and the woods becoming so thick that it was impassible, I decided this was a credible reason to not try it.

And the third reason is because the waterway that we were crossing is called the New River. The New River sounds big. If it was called Possum Creek, then I probably would have dismissed it.

The roads leading from the trail to county Road 100 were not heavily trafficked. I was able to walk on the pavement 90% of the time.

The highway bridge over the New River was very, very long and had almost no shoulder whatsoever. It was not a pleasant crossing. The River itself at this point was about 20 yards wide, so it definitely would have been a wading situation.

Lake Butler

Coming into town, the trail became paved. It skirts from the south end of town to the west end of town. But I was interested in the Mexican restaurant on Main Street. So I took a detour just before City Hall to go grab lunch. It was nothing to write home about. Or blog about.

The next stop in town was the IGA supermarket. I only need two breakfasts, two lunches, and some walking snacks. I was also wanting some more instant coffee, but they did not have any that were suitable. I was also able to charge up my phone and battery bank for about 30 minutes while I repacked my food bag.

The Trail out of Town

The trail turned to grass again right after the IGA supermarket. And within a few blocks it went from a grassy field to a forested track again. Only this time the forest was too thick to negotiate easily.

I could see from the GPS tracks that it looks like they started out with a road walk and then headed over to the railroad bed. So I walked along the road for about a quarter of a mile and then ducked in to the railroad track.

But the track even here was covered in trees growing up in the middle and downed trees and lots of vines. Another look at the GPS tracks showed that they were actually on the west side of the tracks and not on the tracks themselves.

When I went further away from the road, I could see that there was a mowed path between the property and the right of way. Okay so this will do just fine.

Within about a mile and a half, the trail on the side of the tracks basically disappeared. So I tried walking on the tracks for a while but it was just too crazy and too many vines and obstacles to negotiate. So I went back out to the road again.

The same pattern would repeat itself three or four times over the next few miles. I would see that the GPS tracks show that I should be on the other side of the railroad bed and not along the road. So I would go over there and find a small path but most of the time it was on private property and not the right away.

I eventually gave up on trying to find or follow any trails whatsoever. It was just easier to walk along the shoulder of the road for the 8-mile walk out of town. They shouldn’t even bother calling this section a trail.

Away from Town at Last

After the 8-mile road and jungle walk is done, the trail turns directly north. I will now be making my way to Olustee and the Osceola National Forest.

From the map it looks like we’re going to be doing road walking again, but when I get there I see that there is a trail that just closely parallels the road. This will do just fine.

It is exactly 5:00, so I would like to hike for another hour before finding a place to camp. There are pine trees all around and it looks like it will be easy to find a place. The only problem is the ground is also a little bit swampy, so it might be hard to find a dry place.

I met another hiker who is looking for a place in the pines shortly after I enter the woods. He is doing a section hike to get ready for doing the Continental Divide trail in a few months. I let him know about Chuckles and him just finishing the CDT a few months ago. The other hiker has not seen Chuckles, so I can only assume that he is behind me and probably staying in Lake Butler tonight.

Pick one Emotion

The morning went very well. It was very cool and relatively easy hiking, except for the state road 100 road walk around the river. So I’d like to pick something up beat.

But the afternoon s*** show of not being able to find a walkable trail really put a damper on what would have been a great day.

So I guess I need to pick exasperated.

The railroad out of town could make a perfect trail. All they would need to do is just cut down the trees and vines that are growing in the middle of it. The path is already set and there is an excellent foundation for an actual trail.

But the fact that the GPS tracks are going off of the right of the way and into private property is just insane. If they don’t want to clear the trail, or for some reason are not allowed to because the Florida Department of Transportation actually owns the land, then they should just make this section a road walk and not a nightmare of barbed wire and vines.

As a blogger, you know it was a bad day when you only took two pictures all day and only one is worth posting.